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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.